Serves 4–6

3 lb. mixed winter squash, such as delicata, acorn, butternut, and/or honeynut
6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp. ground sumac, optional
Kosher salt
2/3 cup Greek yogurt (to make vegan, use coconut yogurt)
1 lemon
1 Tbsp. brown or yellow mustard seeds
1 tsp. maras, Aleppo, or other moderately spicy crushed red pepper flakes, plus more
for serving
Black pepper
1/3 cup raw pepitas (pumpkin seeds)

Preheat oven to 425° and turn on the convection fan if your oven has one. Rinse
squash and cut into ¾” rounds or wedges, discarding seeds (no need to peel). Transfer
squash to a large cast-iron pan or rimmed baking sheet and toss with 3 Tbsp. olive oil
and the sumac, if using. Season well with salt and toss again, then spread squash out
onto pan; it’s okay if the slices overlap a bit. Transfer to oven and roast until squash is
browned on cut sides and tender when pierced with a cake tester or the tip of a paring
knife, 35–40 minutes, turning pieces over and redistributing in pan about halfway

While the squash is doing its thing, make the yogurt sauce. Stir together yogurt with the
juice of one lemon (about ¼ cup) and season to taste with salt. If sauce is very thick,

add a splash or two of water to loosen it up—it should be spreadable but not runny. Set
yogurt sauce aside.

In a small skillet, heat remaining 3 Tbsp. oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add
mustard seeds and maras pepper along with several cranks of pepper. Cook, shaking
pan gently back and forth, until mustard seeds start to sizzle and pop. Transfer spice
mixture to a heatproof bowl and wipe out pan.

Place skillet back over medium heat and spoon about a teaspoon of spice oil back into
pan. Add pepitas and cook, shaking pan, until pepitas turn golden brown and puff up,
about 2 minutes. Season with salt and transfer to a small plate or bowl.

Spoon yogurt sauce onto a platter and top with squash. Spoon spice oil over and
around squash, then top with pepitas and another sprinkle of maras pepper. Serve
warm or at room temperature.